So you’ve found just the saddle you’ve been wanting.  It’s used, so let’s be sure of it’s condition.  Assuming  it’s a Western saddle, here’s what to look for:

THE TREE - Look up into where the stirrup leathers go over the bar, or any place you can get a good look at the tree.  If it’s a traditional rawhide-covered wood tree you’ll see the lacing that holds it together. Some saddles made in the 50's & 60's used a very thin inferior  rawhide, and this covering often tears and pulls apart at wear-points. Good rawhide looks thick and tough. But even if there are some doubtful spots, don’t write if off just yet.

Among non-traditional trees, the most common is a man-made material, usually Ralide tm used in lower priced saddles. For a low-to-medium priced saddle, they’re fine, but don’t expect to do any heavy roping off one!  They can, and do, break.

Now check the tree for breaks.  Stand the saddle on its nose and push down hard on the cantle.  Any “give” or movement means the cantle is cracked or separated from the bars. Next

lay the saddle flat on the floor and push down on the swells to check for possible broken gullet or separation from the bar.  If the horn tight?  A broken tree can be repaired, or even replaced, if it’s otherwise a quality saddle.

THE RIGGING - This is what keeps the saddle on the horse!  There are three basic types of rigging.  Traditional rigging secures the front metal dee  with a folded piece of heavy leather cut to fit around both sides of the swell.  It’s secured with screws into the wood. Does the leather still look supple and strong, or is it worn thin, dry, or cracked?  Was it a good piece of leather to start with? Is the edge of the bar broken where the screws are inserted?  (Note: Screws and nails tend to loosen and pull out of Ralide tm  trees–give these special attention!)

A poplar rigging today is the “In Skirt” rig. Here, a metal plate, with slots, is riveted between the skirt and another piece of leather which is screwed to the front of the swell and back behind the cantle. Here the key is the quality of the leather used, since the skirt itself is taking part of the strain.  Does it still look and feel firm;  are the rivets secure? 

The third type of rigging is the “Skirt-Plate” rig. Usually used to build a heavy-duty roping saddle,  it’s two layers of heavy skirting leather made as separate unit and screwed to the tree front and back. This makes for more weight and bulk, but is very strong.  Again, is the leather still viable?  

STRAPPING - This includes stirrup leathers, fenders, rear rigging, off-billets, flank billets, tie-latigos, etc. These are all “expendable” parts, subject to constant wear and exposure. Replace any that look worn, dried-out, or over-stretched.  Pay special attention to stirrup leathers.  Are the holes torn, or the rivets pulling out?  Was quality leather used in the first place?
 

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